A Local’s Guide to the Coastline’s Finest Beaches

Pen Llyn is shaped by the sea. It’s not just a landscape,it’s a way of life. From working harbours to sheltered coves, a land where farming meets the sea, conservation goes hand in hand with tourism. Our coastline is both rugged and tender, offering moments of quiet solitude and windswept adventure, sometimes all within the same hour.

I’ve walked these beaches for over 4 decades now, sometimes in search of headspace, sometimes with a flask and a pasty, and more often than not, with Crazy Nell, my irrepressible West Highland Terrier, barrelling after some unfortunate seabird. These ten beaches are, in my opinion, the finest on the Llyn Peninsula. Not just for their looks (though they’re all beautiful in their own way), but for the stories they tell, the peace they offer, and the memories they tend to create. There are many more which just missed the list, but as I say, beaches are a very ‘marmite thing’, a favourite of one person might not be someone else’s cup of tea. They are in no particular order.

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1. Porthdinllaen

There’s something timeless about Porthdinllaen. Tucked away behind the famous Nefyn & District Golf Course, this beach feels like stepping into a painting, boats bobbing in the shallows, cottages backed by steep headland, and the red-bricked Ty Coch Inn sitting contentedly on the sand.

It’s a place where life slows down. There are no cars here, only essential users, and the lack of noise lets you truly hear the rhythm of the waves. It’s especially beautiful in the early morning, when the tide’s in and the light shifts from silver to gold. Nell prefers mid-afternoon, when chips are more likely to be dropped by unsuspecting pub-goers. Make it even more memorable by taking a short 10 min walk to the lifeboat Station. Simply one of the best. Spent a good portion of my youth here during the summer holidays, good old days.

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2. Llanbedrog Beach

Sheltered by Mynydd Tir y Cwmwd and lined with brightly painted beach huts, Llanbedrog is the kind of beach that’s become woven into the holiday traditions of countless families. The water here is calm and safe, making it ideal for swimming, paddleboarding, or simply sitting with your feet in the shallows. Be warned, the tide does go out some distance at low water. When our children were youger, we spent most weekends here, you could call it our local beach.

Above the beach, a network of trails leads up to the famous Tin Man sculpture and panoramic views across Cardigan Bay. It’s a walk worth doing—though try telling that to Nell, who treats any uphill section as a personal insult. Nice beach cafe and the famous Glyn Y Weddw art gallery, only a 5-minute walk away, again with another lovely cafe.

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3. Abersoch Main Beach

Possibly the best-known of Llyn’s beaches, Abersoch is a lively, energetic stretch of coast with a cosmopolitan air. In summer, the water is a patchwork of paddleboards, dinghies, and powerboats. The beach is filled with trendy sunbathers, expensive sunglasses, sandcastle engineers, and dogs on leads that wish they weren’t.

Despite its popularity, there’s still space to be found if you head further along the sand. And in the quieter months, Abersoch reveals a softer, more reflective side. A stroll along the beach in February can be just as rewarding as a sun-drenched August afternoon—if you dress for it.

It’s busy, always busy, and not for everyone, still well worth a visit.

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4. Aberdaron Beach

Aberdaron feels like the end of something and the beginning of something else. It sits at the westernmost tip of Pen Llyn, where land gives way to the sea with a sort of shrug. The village itself is charming and compact, and somewhat like a step back in time, but it’s the beach that steals the show.

Wide and sandy when the tide’s out, Aberdaron is flanked by cliffs and backed by the historic church of St Hywyn, which has looked out across the waves for centuries. From here, you can spot Bardsey Island in the distance, once a place of pilgrimage, now a sanctuary for birds and the odd soul in need of silence.

Aberdaron is good for a day out, plenty of space without being too busy.

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5. Whistling Sands (Porthor)

Yes, it really does whistle, or more accurately, squeaks underfoot, thanks to the unusual shape of its quartz grains. But Whistling Sands isn’t just a novelty; it’s a beautiful, crescent-shaped beach with clean waters, a laid-back café, and one of the finest spots for a swim on a warm summer’s day.

Managed by the National Trust, it’s well-maintained and offers a welcome balance between natural beauty and accessibility. The path down can be steep, so come prepared. And don’t forget cash for the café—Nell will happily accept a corner of your pasty in return for good behaviour (no guarantees though).

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6. Nefyn Beach

Often overshadowed by nearby Porthdinllaen, Nefyn Beach has its own quiet dignity. The beach itself is long and sandy, It’s a working beach, has its own breakwater stashed with lobster pots, evidence of its fishing past and present, and that gives it a character all its own. A sniffing paradise for Nell and her friends.

There’s a real sense of local life here. It’s a good place to take in the scale of the coastline and the way it’s shaped communities for generations. Plus, it’s usually quieter than some of the bigger-name spots—ideal for those who prefer a thoughtful stroll to a beach towel brawl.

A strong tradition of herring fishing over the years, and you will see many references to herrings in and around the village.

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7. Criccieth Beach

Technically just outside the boundary of Pen Llyn, but let’s not split hairs. Criccieth’s beach is a blend of sand and shingle, watched over by the formidable ruins of Criccieth Castle. The town itself is lovely—full of good food, good walks, and Cadwaladers ice cream (a local institution).

It’s a good all-rounder of a beach: plenty of space for dogs and families, a mix of pebbles, shingle and sand, strong tidal interest for shell-seekers, and a real sense of history underfoot. When the waves lap against the sea wall in the evening light, there’s nowhere quite like it. Also famous for its Castle Fish and Chips. As you can imagine, Crazy Nell loves it, the rockpools, rolling in seaweed, topped by some chips.

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8. Traeth Penllech

If solitude is your goal, Penllech is your prize. This long, sandy beach lies off the beaten track near Llangwnnadl and rewards those willing to go the extra mile (often down a farm track) with space, silence, and a stunning expanse of golden sand. This is what a traditional beach holiday is all about, towels, bucket and spades and a fully laden picnic hamper, tradition at its finest.

The cliffs to the east provide a striking backdrop, and the beach is excellent for swimming, especially when the tide is on its way in. We once saw a seal basking here, entirely unfussed by our presence. Nell, on the other hand, was convinced it was a rock. Until it moved.

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9. Porth Ysgawen(Tudweiliog)

A true hidden gem, Porth Ysgawen is a small, quiet beach near Tudweiliog that most visitors never stumble across. It’s sheltered, peaceful, and full of character, with swirling rock formations and rockpools that reveal all sorts of secrets at low tide. A natural harbour facing due West and flanked on 3 sides by natural rock formations. Just the place to do some safe tombstoning. A favourite smimming spot of mine , yes me, Nell just sits on the shore thinking Im the crazy one.

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10. Traeth Tywyn (Tudweiliog)

Locally known as Tywyn, this lovely little beach is quite spectacular, a wide cove flanked by rock on both east and west. Lovely sand, popular with bodyboarders and surfers. You park at Towyn farm and put some money in an honesty box, also the home of the awesome Cwt Tatws, a lovely little shop selling all sorts of homewares, jewellery, clothes, as well as essential beach stuff. Has a lovely cafe, cakes and other treats. For somewhere off the beaten track, we do pass quite often, and of course, Nell always has to make sure the standards are still as good…….

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Final Thoughts

Each of these beaches has a different rhythm. Some are lively, others quiet; some are perfect for a family picnic, others better suited to solitary reflection or sandy-pawed explorations. Together, they form a coastline that is deeply loved, fiercely protected, and well worth returning to.

So come for a walk. Bring your boots, or your sandals, or your dog. And if you see Nell, say hello—but maybe keep your pasty out of reach.

During the summer Months most beaches are zones to dog friendly and dog free zones.This does change so please make sure you are allowed to take your dog before you head out. If its not on the list, then there are no control ordors.

Here is a link to the Gwynedd Council’s website re dog exclusion zones.

https://www.gwynedd.llyw.cymru/en/Residents/Documents-Residents/Pests,-pollution-and-food-hygiene-documents/List-of-beaches.pdf

Have fun

Ger and Crazy Nell

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