There are some hobbies you pick up for convenience — a bit of gardening, maybe a round of golf, the occasional jigsaw puzzle. Then there’s sea swimming, which is about as far from “convenient” as you can get, especially when you live in North Wales and the water temperature for most of the year hovers somewhere between “invigorating” and “are you out of your mind?”.

Yet here I am, diving (well… wading awkwardly) into the waters of Pen Llyn at least five days a week, from the 1st of March until the end of October. Call it dedication, call it stubbornness, or perhaps just an excuse to eat more cake — but it’s become a cornerstone of my life, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything.

Abererch Beach – My Go-To Stretch of Sand

Most days, you’ll find me at Abererch Beach, or as us locals call it, ‘Lan mor berch’ just a stone’s throw from home. It’s a wide sweep of golden sand, stretching out towards Pwllheli, with views that make even the most reluctant swimmer think, “Go on then, just a quick dip.”

The best thing about this beach is the space and shelter. Even in summer, you can find a quiet spot to set up camp. When the tide is in, you can wade straight in from the sand; when it’s out, the water retreats so far it feels like you’re walking to Ireland before you get your feet wet. But that just means more time to take in the salty air, the seabirds wheeling overhead, and the distant mountains framing the horizon.

Pwllheli Promenade – A Tide-Dependent Treat

When the tide’s out at Abererch, I head to the promenade at Pwllheli. There’s something satisfying about striding across the pebbles, the sea lapping gently against the shore, the brightly painted houses looking on approvingly.

The water here can be a bit choppy at times, especially with a south-westerly, but you are straight in to deep water, whatever the tide.

Criccieth – Castle Views and Gentle Waves

Criccieth is another favourite of mine. It’s hard to beat the sight of the castle standing guard above the bay while you swim. There’s a gentle slope into the water, and on a sunny evening, the sea glimmers like someone’s scattered diamonds just for you, a lovely place to relax.

Carreg Y Defaid & Llanbedrog

A couple of lovely bays, with some shelter, again suits higher tides, as again the tide marches out in vain on low water.

Porth Ysgaden – The Jewel in the Crown

But the real magic? That’s Porth Ysgaden, which translates to Herring Cove. Tucked away near Tudweiliog, this small sheltered cove feels like your own private slice of paradise. The water here is clear and calm, perfect for longer swims, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot a curious seal keeping an eye on you. Used to be a busy working port centuries ago, a small but natural harbour with boats from both Liverpool and Ireland Visiting.

The surrounding cliffs give it a snug, safe feeling, and when you emerge from the water with the sun warming your back, you can’t help but think: This is what life’s about. Crazy Nell certainly agrees — she’s usually found patrolling the tideline, hunting for unfortunate crabs and barking at waves as if they’ve personally offended her.

Swimming here on a late summer’s evening whilst the sun is retiring for the evening is just something else.

People ask me why.

Cold-water swimming isn’t just a test of grit — it’s genuinely good for you. The shock of the chill kick-starts your circulation, boosts your immune system, and releases endorphins that leave you grinning like an idiot afterwards.

Regular dips improve cardiovascular health, ease muscle aches, and can do wonders for your mental wellbeing. There’s something about being surrounded by saltwater, with nothing but the sound of the sea in your ears, that sweeps away the clutter in your head. Stress, deadlines, shopping lists — they all dissolve somewhere between the first gasp and the first steady stroke.

The Beauty of Pen Llyn from the Water

Swimming here also gives you a different perspective on Pen Llyn. From the shore, it’s beautiful; from the water, it’s breathtaking. The coastline unfolds in sweeping arcs and hidden coves, the hills shift colour with the light, and seabirds skim so close you can hear the whisper of their wings.

Every beach has its own character: Abererch’s wide-open expanse, Pwllheli’s gentle curve, Criccieth’s postcard-perfect charm, and Porth Ysgaden’s secluded magic. Each swim feels like its own little adventure, shaped by the tide, the weather, and the mood of the sea that day.

The Season Ahead

By the time October rolls around, my fingers may be wrinkled beyond recognition, but my spirits are always high. And come March, I’m itching to get back in — yes, even when there’s still frost on the grass. It’s a rhythm I’ve grown to love: the seasons marked not just by flowers or leaves, but by the changing light on the water, the smell of the sea, and the feel of the waves against my skin.

So if you see a slightly windswept figure marching into the sea while most people are still huddled in coats, that’s probably me. Just give me a wave — or better yet, come and join me. I promise the first couple of minutes are the worst… and after that, you’ll wonder why you didn’t start years ago.

Top Tips for Sea Swimming on Pen Llyn

Thinking of taking the plunge? Here’s what I’ve learned from many a frosty morning dip:

Enjoy the View – Don’t forget to stop, tread water, and take in the beauty of Pen Llyn. You’re not just swimming; you’re in one of the most stunning places on Earth.

Start Slow – Don’t leap straight into 15-minute swims in March unless you want to invent new swear words. Begin with a few minutes and build up.

Check the Tide Times – The difference between “easy stroll into the sea” and “45-minute hike to find water” can be dramatic around here.

Wear What Works for You – Some swear by wetsuits, others (including me) go for swimsuits and bravery. Gloves, booties, and a swim cap can help take the edge off.

Never Swim Alone – The sea is unpredictable. Even in calm conditions, it’s safer (and more fun) with a buddy.

Warm Up Properly Afterwards – Dry clothes, a hot drink, and maybe a slice of bara brith for morale.

Respect the Sea – Check the forecast, watch for rip currents, and know your limits.